Vitamin c - Popular misconceptions
Vitamin C is the active ingredient with the greatest antioxidant capacity used topically in dermocosmetics. However, when we talk about pure vitamin C, or ascorbic acid, questions arise with respect to its use and benefits, particularly with the arrival of summer and intense exposure to the sun.
As a leading laboratory in treatment ampoules with proteoglycans and pure vitamin C, MartiDerm would like to settle the questions that arise in pharmacy practice each day and fill you in on some interesting facts about this star ingredient.
Characteristics and functions
- ANTIOXIDANT CAPACITY
- Vitamin C is able to delay or prevent the oxidation of other molecules. It acts by neutralising the free radicals that build up, preventing cell damage. This plays a fundamental role in skin aging.
- It partners up extremely well with UVA and UVB sunscreens to boost the skin’s natural protection.
- It immediately makes the skin brighter, performing an instant ‘flash’ effect.
- ANTIAGING ACTION
- It activates collagen III and elastin production and prevents their degradation, improving skin elasticity and firmness.
- It encourages the stimulation of proteoglycans.
- DEPIGMENTING
- Tyrosinase inhibitor: prevents the appearance of hyperpigmentation or dark spots.
- 4-hydroxyphenylpyruvate oxidase protector: involved in tyrosine metabolism.
- Reduction of excess melanin: regulates skin tone.
But not all the forms of vitamin C that we find in cosmetics have the same antioxidant capacity. It basically depends on whether it is pure or in the form of salt.In the case of pure vitamin C, it is not just the percentage concentrated in the product which matters but also the pH at which it is formulated. The pH will determine whether it has a greater or lesser effect in terms of antioxidant action.
At MartiDerm we like being a compounded-formula benchmark. That’s why our Proteoglicanos ampoules provide the means and ideal state to ensure that the vitamin C they contain is the best, so you can enjoy all the existing benefits.
| MARTIDERM Proteoglicanos | MARTIDERM Photo Age | MARTIDERM Skin Complex |
| 3% Proteoglycans | 3% Proteoglycans | 5% Proteum 89+ |
| Ø 5% pure vitamin C | Ø 15% pure vitamin C Ø Vitamins A, E, F Ø Anti-radical Repair complex | Ø 15% vitamin C Ø 5% vitamins: A, E, F and B3 |
| pH 3.84 | pH 3.50 | pH 3.75 |
| Allergen-free | Allergen-free | Allergen-free |
For pure vitamin C to have maximum efficacy in a cosmetic product, it must have a medium pH level of between 3.5 and 4. Below 3.5 and the pH will be overly acidic, meaning the product could be too irritating. Above an average of 4 and it loses efficacy.
Popular misconceptions
In the pharmacy business, we are regularly asked whether vitamin C should be used during summer, as people are worried it could stain their skin. The fact is that it CAN’T. Vitamin C does not produce hyperpigmentation or darken existing spots.
Indeed, using products with a pure vitamin C concentration of between 5 and 15% has a lightening or depigmenting action. As mentioned above, vitamin C is an enzyme inhibitor of tyrosinase and an excellent coadjutant in depigmenting treatments. It improves and evens skin tone and provides luminosity.
